I'm back with my second-ever crochet pattern! This hat gets me comments and compliments wherever I go--which these days is really only to the post office or grocery store. It's a little reminiscent of a particular confectionary cartoon character but I didn't realize that until after the fact. It's still cute though!
Questions or comments? Please send them my way in the comment section down below or via any of my socials!
If you like this pattern and want to show your support, you can purchase a handy-dandy PDF version from my Ravelry store! The PDF version also has additional helpful pictures and stitch explanations.
Some Notes: The first half of this pattern is basically just making a crochet circle; a really nice video that explains visually how to do this is here
I don’t know anything about gauge but I have generally somewhat tighter tension and used a 6.00 mm/J hook and ended up with about 20 to 21 inch circumference around the head with a little bit of stretch. If you have a looser tension or want a smaller hat I would recommend using a 5.00 or 5.50 mm hook. If you want a larger sized hat consider using a 6.50 or 7.00 mm hook or stop decreasing at an earlier round than what the pattern indicates.
I use a magic circle/ring to start off the hat, but you could probably ch 3 and join or use another method, as long as you have a nice circle to work into.
Onto the pattern!
Strawberry Beret/Tam/Slouch Hat
Pattern © Aster Rogers, 2020
https://linktr.ee/starwortfool
MATERIALS
Hook: 6.00 mm/J hook
Yarn: Aran weight yarn of your choice in red, green, and white or yellow - 1 skein each
(I am using Caron One Pound Yarn in Scarlet and Leaf Green, and Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn in White)
Yarn needle
Scissors
ABBREVIATIONS
US crochet terms
FO - fasten off
st - stitch
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
edc - extended double crochet (yarn over, insert into next st, draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through last two loops)
trc - treble crochet
dtr - double treble crochet
picot - ch 2, sl st into back loop of first ch
MC - magic circle (adjustable ring)
DEC - decrease
BLO - back loop only
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
Notes:
Instructions between asterisks ** are repeated as instructed in the pattern.
Stitch counts for each round are in parentheses at the end of each round.
Ch 3 at the beginning of rounds always counts as stitch (first dc of round), ch 1 does not count as first st in a row of sc
Do not work into joining sl st of previous rounds unless instructed
Body - With green, make MC and ch 1. (or, ch 4 and join to first ch with sl st, then work next round into ch circle)
Round 1 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc 11 into MC. Join to first dc with sl st. (12)
Round 2 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 2 dc in every st around. Join to first dc (24)
Round 3 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st* around, join to first dc, FO (36)
Round 4 with red, either join in any st and ch 3 or standing dc in any st, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next 2 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st* around, join to first dc (48)
Round 5 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next 3 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 st* around, join to first dc (60)
Round 6 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next 4 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 4 st* around, join to first dc (72)
Round 7 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next 5 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 5 st* around, join to first dc (84)
Round 8 Ch 3, dc in same st as joining, 1 dc in next 6 st, *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 6 st* around, join to first dc (96)
Round 9-11 Ch 3, dc in next st and each st around, join to first dc (96)
Round 12 Ch 3, dc in next 5 st, DEC over next 2 st, *1 dc in next 6 st, DEC over next 2 st* around, join to first dc (84)
Round 13 Ch 3, dc in next 4 st, DEC over next 2 st, *1 dc in next 5 st, DEC over next 2 st* around, join to first dc (72)
Round 14 Ch 3, dc in next 3 st, DEC over next 2 st, *1 dc in next 4 st, DEC over next 2 st* around, join to first dc (60)
Round 15 Ch 3, dc in next 7 st, DEC over next 2 st, *1 dc in next 8 st, DEC over next 2 st* around, join to first dc (54)
Round 16-18 Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), sc in BLO of same st as joining and in each st around, join to first sc (54)
Round 19 Ch 1 (counts as first sl st), sl st in next st and each st around, join to first st, FO and weave in ends (54)
Leaves - With green, ch 36, join with sl st to one side of the first ch.
Round 20 Ch 1 (counts as first sl st), *1 sc in next st, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 edc, (1 trc, 1 dtr, 1 trc) in same stitch, 1 edc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 3 sl st* around with last sl st in beginning ch 1 (42)
Round 21 sc in each st around; when you get to the dtr from the previous round, make 1 picot, and sl st in the second sl st from the 3 sl st in the previous round. Invisible join last sc to last sl st from previous round. FO and leave a long tail for sewing.
Joining leaves With green yarn and your yarn needle, join leaves to the RS top of round 3 using invisible/mattress stitch (or whichever method you want as long as it works)
‘Seeds’ With white or yellow yarn and your yarn needle, take a long (~20 inches) piece and thread through the needle and place your needle at the halfway point of your yarn piece (so that the yarn is doubled-up as you weave it). Weave it from the WS to the RS top of round 4 and over round 5, and every other round until you get to the rim of the hat, then tie off and secure the strands. Do this as many times as you want (I did about 14 rows) evenly spaced out to make the ‘seeds’ of the strawberry.
And you’re finished! Enjoy your new fruit hat! If you post pics, feel free to tag me in them so I can see! Also feel free to gift or sell your creation--but please link back to this pattern (or my Etsy or other social medias) in the listing or on the tag.
Please do not redistribute, publish, or sell this pattern or claim it as your own. You may post pictures of or sell items you have made using this pattern, but please link back to my Etsy shop, Instagram, and/or Ravelry profile on the tag/post/online listing of the product.
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